I hadn’t been to Bolos for about 30 years and so it was refreshing in this threatening, changing world to find that nothing had changed. In fact I’m pretty sure the waiters were the same; they were all in the twilight of their careers but maintaining that old school gentlemanly charm that seems to have disappeared in the eateries of today.

The decoration is simple, but the open kitchen provides all the action you need to observe the eternal battle between man and fish.

Furthermore, in the second of the two ample dining rooms you can find a display of underwater fauna to whet your appetite.

They offer a variety of special menus as well as a more economical meal of the day. They also do very reasonably priced ‘almuerzos’ for those who cannot face the interminable stretch of time between breakfast and lunch.

We opted for the second most expensive restaurant, which seemed more than adequate for our humble needs.

The rations were not excessive, just enough to whet your appetite and make way for the next dish.

I’m sure I won’t be waiting another 30 years to return to Bolos, which is located near Avenida del Puerto at C/ del Pare Tomàs de Montañana, 2.