Around 12,000 years ago life was pretty different. Obviously, I can’t speak from personal experience and writing or blogging hadn’t really caught on by then, so it’s difficult to know for sure.
However, we do know that early forms of farming and cultivation had begun and some of the same techniques are still used to this day. Fast-forwarding 6,000 years, it’s obvious that growing flora and fauna, as well as edible crops wasn’t just a fad and was here to stay.
In Anatolia, people began cultivating olive trees because they had become aware of the abundant benefits they have to offer, to do with health, religion, politics and peace amongst others. Some 3,000 years later, Phoenicians, known for their adventurous spirit and keen sense for trade, ventured across from the eastern Mediterranean and introduced this bountiful tree to the Iberian Peninsula; Thus, the olive became embedded within Spanish culture.
Recently, on a wet and windy morning, I had the opportunity to learn about olive cultivation and the millennia old methods used to produce some the most A-class, extra virgin olive oil around. Juana Maria and Francisca of La Almazara Erilla, part of OleoTurismo in Granada, were kind enough to spare me a couple of hours of their morning, showing me around the ancient mill and educating me in the ways of oily righteousness.
Upon arrival, I’m given a brief introduction and learn that this is a one-of-a-kind mill, unique within southern Europe. It’s machinery and architecture have been kept in mint condition, with some parts dating back to the 12th century.
As we enter a room of great proportion, I’m told that the mill has two main grinding and pressing systems from different periods. On either side of me are two enormous cylindrical shafts with threaded grooves standing vertically upon grind stones and the bowls they sit in. Attached horizontally are two hinged arms stretching the entire length of the room. An incredible sight to behold as Juana María explains that this is a water-powered machine from the late 18th to mid 20th century. A beam and quintal press, modernising the antiquated lever press which was used from as far back as the 7th century.
We continue through into a smaller back room where we find what’s called The Blood Mill from the 16th century. This is an earlier more basic grindstone with an attached wooden ore and harness to enslave, I imagine, a rather downtrodden donkey or mule to take on the dizzying task of walking round and around in circles until the olives have been turned into mulch. This would have then been collected and pressed to become extra virgin olive oil.
The other rooms contained within the walls of La Almazara display ancient tools and containers, crafted for weighing, stirring, processing, storing and transporting this humble yet noble fruit of the land.
Juana Maria and Francisca paint a picture of what working at the mill would have been like all those years ago. A small team of people working on rotation 24 hours a day, even sleeping top to tail on raised platforms before going literally back to the grindstone. It’s clear to me that mills of any kind were, and still are pillars of the community, ensuring that we make the most of what surrounds us.
In the final section, I was guided to the exterior where a long passage with walled segments of around three or four metres squared leads down to the street. I ask about the purpose of these spaces, and they were, of course, for the local farmers to come and drop their harvests before pressing.
As the weather worsens, we conclude the physical tour of the premises before I get the chance to lubricate my whistle with some samples that truly blow my socks off!
We go back to the warmth of the shop where Juana Maria and Francisca show me an array of different bottles and explain how the process is quite different these days, but the quality of oil is not less than, if you know where to look. Previously I had thought that there were two main types of olive harvested around the El Valle de Lecrin, but to my surprise there are as many as fifteen different varieties all with slightly different properties.
As excitement and eagerness builds, my hosts disappear behind a curtain, before emerging moments later with little glass ramekins, sliced bread and bottles of their finest oils. That said, one brand I did recognise was from a rather well-known Spanish supermarket. Thankfully, this is just for a point of comparison. The other two, I didn’t know but I was informed of the type of olive they came from and the exact location from El Valle de Lecrin. Well, need I say the supermarket ‘olive oil’ didn’t compare to the other elite extra virgin samples pressed earlier that year.
In comparison to the plastic-bottled, bog-standard quality, these were soft and silky on the palette with a rich flavour and an unforgettable peppery finish on the throat after swallowing. They truly were unlike anything I had ever tried before. As I contemplated the flavours I had just encountered, I was advised hat to ensure good health one should take a teaspoon of extra virgin oil every day; Because of its content of vitamins E and K, richness in monounsaturated fat, antioxidants and anti-inflammatories, olive oil reduces the risk of heart disease, lowers cholesterol and leaves one feeling elated.
With this wisdom fresh in my mind, I hope that it can also protect me from hypothermia. I thank my hosts and prepare myself to risk life and limb in the torrential rain and gale force winds that await me outside.
Thankfully, all’s well that ends well…Five stars for La Almazara Erilla!
(News/Feature: La Almazara Erilla, Nigüelas, Valle de Lecrín, Granada, Andalucia)