Good bones, sleek lines and the ability to win deep affection: the high-end Abercrombie & Kent Travel Group knows a good thing when it sees it. So when Crystal Cruises sailed into financial strife in 2022, A&K rushed to snaffle two of the defunct company’s most beloved ships, the Crystal Serenity and the 1995-built Crystal Symphony, and immediately set about updating and reconfiguring so they could do the impossible – relaunch within a year. The result? A hybrid of Crystal Cruises’ small-ship charm and A&K’s exceptionality.

Boarding

I’m joining the Crystal Symphony for its Melbourne-Sydney leg. As the taxi pulls up at Port Melbourne my heart sinks at the long queue winding out of the terminal under leaden skies, spitting rain and crashing thunder that Melbourne has scripted for our send-off. But there’s a plot twist: the queue is for the other ship docked here. I’m spirited on board and in 10 minutes I have a fresh cruise pass in one hand and champagne in the other as I watch a rainbow straight out of special effects announce a break in the weather over the bay.

The design

Luxury is never a dirty word, but it is an overused one. One marker that cannot be fudged and that sets cruise experiences apart is a sense of space, something Crystal Symphony has in spades, helped by the decision to reduce capacity from 900 passengers to 606 by preferencing bigger guest rooms over smaller ones during refurbishment. The number of 20-square-metre rooms was cut from 347 to 95, while the number of 40-square-metre Sapphire Suites rose from 31 to 132. Detail-driven design set off by quality Italian furnishings mean all the public areas invite you to linger (it’s hard to walk past those plush Cassina chairs) and there are no dead spaces. This is not a shouty ship; the overall feeling is of elegant, relaxed comfort, that makes it hard to decide where you want to spend most of your time.

The spaces

I’m at the Seahorse lap pool on deck 11 and, in a cruise-ship rarity, I have it to myself, though the brisk water temperature may have something to do with this. After a floaty hour on one of the many, well-spaced deckchairs, other spaces beckon.

The pot-planted Palm Court on the same deck is the spot for afternoon tea accompanied by a 270-degree forward view and a pianist. Later it’s the venue for cocktails, and to witness a rosy ocean framed by floor-to-ceiling windows before the dance floor fills. From the wide promenade deck, to a bite at the refreshed Parisian-inspired bistro, to the shiny brass fittings by the elevators, you’ll encounter clean lines, elegance and attention to detail.

The stateroom

In a nod to the passion of Crystal Symphony’s former cruisers and to avoid needless waste, A&K decided to entirely refit decks seven and eight only, and to preserve the ship’s classic staterooms on deck 10, which feature darker wood and are beloved by previous passengers. (I witness one returning passenger describe his former stateroom in loving detail, down to how it felt to write at the desk).

I’m in one of the new Sapphire Verandah Suites on deck eight, which is more than 40 square metres (yes, two staterooms were turned to one) with a double balcony, separate lounge and walk-in wardrobe. But again it’s the small details not immediately apparent that impress the most: the Fiorito marble in the bathroom; the Italian Jesurum 1870 bed sheets ($US2000 a set); the push-button double rainshower and Bushnell binoculars for ocean gazing. There’s also 24/7 butler service, which all rooms now include.

The food

Yes, your butler can deliver whatever you like 24/7, but you must eat at least once at Umi Uma, the only Nobu at sea, for such delights as lobster tacos and monkfish liver pate. This Japanese-Peruvian hybrid, complete with sushi bar, is by Michelin-star chef Nobuyuki (Nobu) Matsuhisa, who has had a 20-year relationship with Crystal. If you prefer to travel to Italy, there’s Osteria d’Ovidio and Scoops gelato bar for dessert.

The indoor/outdoor Marketplace with its jaunty striped chairs will banish any doubts about cruise buffets: it’s here that the Crystal Symphony’s high guest to space ratio (1:82 square metres) really shines. The Bistro, the Trident Grill and the Tastes Kitchen and Bar offer casual eating, while the more formal Waterside offers has range of cuisines served on white tablecloths.

Wellness

There’s a well-equipped gym, the Seahorse lap pool, the spacious Promenade walk on deck seven, a pickle-ball court and golf range. The revamped Aurora Spa offers a sauna and a range of treatments.

Entertainment

Head to the Galaxy Lounge Theatre for Broadway-style shows, the Starlight Lounge for comedy or the Avenue Salon for jazz. The Jade Nightclub buzzes: mainly because of its resident DJ who once worked at that famously infamous New York hotspot Studio 54, a fact celebrated with photos of celebrated ’54-ers Andy Warhol and Bianca Jagger in their disco-hopping heyday beamed onto walls, accompanied by a danceable mix. Daytime pursuits beyond eating, drinking, relaxing, exercising and socialising? There’s the computer lab, a cosy library and Galaxy Lounge movies. There is no casino.

The crew

When you’re on a good thing, stick to it. When news came that A&K was breathing new life in the Symphony after Crystal went into receivership, 85 per cent of former crew members jumped at the chance to get back on board and that’s tipped to hit 95 per cent by the end of March. The crew ratio with almost one staff member per guest, is the highest at sea. The crew are unfailingly efficient, polite, friendly and helpful. Unfortunately, I don’t get to test the butler service; I have everything I need, so I keep forgetting I have one.

The verdict

Attention to detail, classic touches and understated elegance: there are many reasons why the Crystal Symphony attracts such loyalty. This beautiful ship has emerged from financial upheaval with a new owner sympathetic to its history and to the expectations of its returning guests.

The details

A 10-night Stockholm to Copenhagen voyage leaving August 11, from $9100 a guest. A 12-night sailing from Venice to Istanbul from June 10, $13,300 a guest. All-inclusive. The Symphony has five staterooms with disabled access.

The writer was a guest of the Crystal Symphony. (crystalcruises.com)

The rating out of five

★★★★½

Swell

Relaxing on my wide balcony, with nothing but sea, serenity – and good binoculars.

Not so swell

Sydney’s White Bay Cruise Terminal somehow still causes Uber confusion.